Suzy Menkes - Cyber Craft - A brief history of fashion

I had to share this precious little diamond from NOWNESS

Vendor Luis Venegas

If you are in constant search of inspiration like me, then you better check out what Luis Venegas has up his sleeve! The master of three well edited independent magazines, which deals with all topics that a magazine should contain.  His aesthetics has a somewhat autodidact approach that makes them spontaneous and fresh. I even adore how Venegas dwell on the past and predict the future. You will find the Grand Masters and the fresh creatives here!
Make sure to wait at the door of Smoke Shop in on Lafayette and Spring street, or other carefully selected distributors, the day his magazines hits the store floor as they are limited edition and hard to get!

                                                   FANZINE137

Scroll thorugh this magazine to find a Luis Venegas still life - My favorite 137 things

A humble interview with the creative trefoil Jack Pierson, Ryan McGinley and David Armstrong

A painterly capture by Jordi Labanda of rare painter Alex Katz

A desirable display of Irving Penn books

A polaroid from the infamous Helmut Lang campaigns from the early 90`s featuring the androgyneous model Stella Tennant, juxtaposed with the physiognomy of a classic Greek sculpture. Beautifully captured by Wolfgang Tillmans.

A dreamy capture by Tim Walker.

                                               CANDY MAGAZINE

From the pages of Candy Magazine you may find a display of breathtaking illustrations by fashions very own favorite artist Julie Verhoeven.

Beautiful series of Christian Lacroix Haute Couture worn by boys as captured here by Karim Sadli.

Men posing like women, here in the shape of the designer duo Viktor and Rolf.

A celebration of gender, gay and everything queer, like this suggestive piece on Quentin Crisp perpetuated by Herb Ritts.

The androgyny of actress captured by Herb Rittz Hilary Swank in the aftermath of her Oscar winning role in Boy`S don`t Cry.

                                            EY!MAGATEEN

Vulnerable yet optimistic interviews on male models in the starting pit of their careers.

Iamges of carefree youth.

Genuine, ugly-pretty fashion spreads.

New Face posing in Hammerthor by Comme des Garcon briefs.

EMBRACE ALL COLOURS

                                                      "A  change is gonna come, oh yes it will....."    

                                                                               PRADA SS14

Miuccia Prada is an excellent designer and such a great stylist. The complex range of colours she manages to blend into her palette is masterly. The careless and contemporary mix of colour justifies the consistent use of the 40`s silhouette. Make sure to buy a double breasted jacket or a shiny satin bomber, hawaiian patterned shirts and lush knitted piques, always in a combination with loose fitted formal pants and striped belts to achieve the look. You should even missmatch your suitcase! 

                                                                                        VINTI ANDREWS SS2014

I recently discovered the designs of playful Vinti Andrews through brillian magazine Fucking Young! - I was first intrigued by the traditional short sleeve shirt in a beautiful tapestry pattern that looks like flower applications on mesh ground. I also love his play with proportion in silhouettes evoking the image of a hip hopper or baseball player. I give his über slouchy pants a warm welcome in a time where skinny pants never seems to retire! I am looking forward to order his garments from my favorite colour orange, his blurry camo pattern or his naïve granite sprinkled knits when the garments hits his web store. Check it out.

                                                             Norbert Mathieu photographed by Ossi Piispanen


                                                                                                          DRIES VAN NOTEN SS2014

I am always amazed by Dries van Notens collections, full of surprises yet with that unmistakable touch that makes him easily recognisable. I love how his men`s and women`s collections crosses boundaries and seems mutually inspired and how they complement eachother. I see traces of decorated porcelain, ancient cheongsam patterns and the ever present refferals to uniform dressing - be it for use on the battle- or the football-field. And above all that he is the most brilliant colourist of all time and I hail him for including all colours to his scheme.

HAIDER ACKERMANN SS14

And finally the impeccably inked models from the Haider Ackermann show. Looking slightly unnaproachable in their variations of the tuxedo with a shawl collar, complete with satin stola and pointy lacquered shoes. The scale of colours is rich in a sober manner. Ackermann confirms with his collection that the shiny surfaces will become a wardrobe staple of the season.

FLORAL SHIRTS

                                                                     FULL BLOOM

In summer I like to smarten up with colors - and pick my shirts from my wardrobe like a scientists browse through his herbarium. I wanted the setting to resemble the gorgeous light of a Vermeer painting and was even brought a radiant green birch fresh from the woods for the shoot. Sigh! The joy of summer!

The nonchalant feel of a pink and lavender paisley print.

The charming class of a Liberty design.

A timely interpretation from Surface to Air.

Lush pink and orange against crisp white in a Thomas Burberry shirt.

Odd combinations and rare colors from the hands of Paul Smith.

Dimmed black, blue and dove from Zara.

VOLUMINOUS LEATHER

                                                            KEEP IT IN THE CLOSET

A recent browsing through our closet made me want to try these two great vintage leather jacket`s purchased by my husband in the late 80`s, intact with it´s exaggerated proportions. I simply wanted to feel what the 80`s proportions really was like. I have always admired how leather ages beautifully and I even think the jacket`s have proven their longevity after sporting them in the living room of our country house. Never throw away a classic - keep it in the closet!

A wardrobe staple: The Biker Jacket 

Levis Strauss & CO since 1850 - Guaranteed Worlds Finest - Only selected materials has been used - We always demand the best.

                                "Oh what a feeling, when we´re dancing on the ceeling"

"Biker-Jacket-stream-of-consciousness: Marlon Brando, Classic, Wardrobe Staple, Freddie Mercury, Dior Homme, Saint Laurent, Billy Idol, Querelle, Tom of Finland,  American Gigolo, Rock, Punk, Black, sexy..."

The jacket of the season; The Pilot Jacket 

CHEVIGNON - Flying Wear - Genuine Cow Hide

"Pilot-jacket-stream-of-consciousness: Top Gun, Tom Cruise, Charles Lindbergh, Amelia Erheart, Jacket of the season, masculine, heavy leather, dark brown, aviation, snap buttons, zippers.."

Otherwise: Nudie Jeans, Dries van Noten belt, distressed vintage white tee, Helmut Lang beige corduroy pants, Whyred shirt.

Interview: Peter Jensen

                                                         OUT OF THE ORDINARY

I was lucky to get hold of the charming Danish Designer Peter Jensen for a quick Q&A. His signature might be oddity and a pretty strangeness on the surface of his collections, but after digging into his treasure chest I found a limited edition Tee Shirt cooperation with Opening Ceremony, and the fact that the brilliant filmmaker/actress Lena Dunham is sporting his garments on and off stage! Please use a few precious moments to absorb his inspiring thoughts.

 

Portraits of the designer: Paul Bliss

Herrbergquist: Your garments are often embellished with naive drawings of animals. Do you have a pet or favorite animal who inspires you?

Peter Jensen: No, not really, i can't say that i do. I do really like dogs all sorts of dogs. I think, that dogs brings out the true person in you, they can smell if you are evil.

Q: Rare patterns and odd combinations of colour and fabrics are also frequently present in your work. What are you inspired by right in this moment?

A: Right now a few things one of them being Paulette Goddard.

One of Peter Jensen´s muses: factory worker turned lottery millionaire Vivian Nicholson exclaimed "Spend, Spend, Spend " when she was asked how to mange her newfound fortune in 1962, which inspired his A/W 2013 collection. Who wouldn´t feel  lavish with this statement on the chest?

Odd colors, precise tailoring and rare fabrics turns into desirable outfits in his "Arne" A/W Pre 2013 Collection,  a very fine pipe smoking gentleman by the name of Arne Jacobsen serves as inspiration, hence the name. I would love to take a turn in those glittery shoes.

Q: I am in love with my Peter Jensen for Harris Tweed shoes that you made with them a few years back. It must have been inspiring to work with such an old, traditional company?

A: Yes it was great fun to work with an old fabric mill like Harris tweed, which does great things new and old. I love the quality of Harris Tweed.

My coveted Peter Jensen for Harris Tweed, purchased from Surface To Air in Paris a few years back.

Q: Lena Dunham was recently spotted in one of your fox sweaters? Congratulations! How did this come true?

A: Yes,thanks i love Lena, I got to know her when we worked with her mom Laurie Simmons for the SS10 collection. She is great and is doing so well for herself. We also did some looks for "girls" and we did her dress for the grammys this year.

Q: Many of your sweaters, tees, shawls and bags can easily be worn by men and are even defined as unisex, and I presume you have many male fans? What is your favourite garment from your own collection that you love to wear?

A: Well we do do a mens collection every season, but it is true that i try more and more to make it unisex. I think, this is the way for fashion at the moment.
I love this black canvas blazer from the SS08 "mink" collection, it makes me feel thin and stand up right.

                                     

                              Pure Pink Unisex Fine Waffle Crew Neck Sweater - Aqua Blue Peter Jensen Tee                              

Q: You studied in England, at Central St. Martins, but you are originally Dansih. What do you covet most from your Danish background that is also visible in your design?

A: Yes i did my MA at st.martins and is now head of the MA menswear pathway. I did my BA in Copenhagen and a tailoring degree in Aarhus.
I don't know what it is about what i do that is visible as coming from Denmark, but i can't run from the fact that i was born and rise in Denmark, which much have some kind of influencing on my work.
Maybe it has a "hyggelig" feel to it or it makes people happy when they wear it, i'm not sure.

                          "Hyggelige" (aka nice/cosy) look book shoots: Rabbit Scribble Tee - Rabbit Rainbow Tee

AT EASE IN DUNGAREES

                                                 Orange Overall

Spending my weekend in dungarees made me wonder what designers does men`s overalls these days?
This slouchy vintage cotton canvas version is the perfect garment to loosen up with funny games in the countryside.

Ever since Marky Mark made them infamous in the period of his iconic CK ads they have only appeared occasionally on the catwalk from designers such as Ralph Lauren and Marc Jacobs to name but a few.

FASHION IN MOTION from my favorite spot in the garden.  Vibrant orange looks striking against the clear blue sky.

 

Vintage cotton canvas Dungarees, Uniqlo plaid flannel shirt, silver and orange Adidas sneakers.